Le Marais (3e arrondissement) is the only part of Paris that’s open. It’s a very nice part of town and a very old part of town, and hence, packed to the brim with American tourists. So many, in fact, that I haven’t heard all that much French spoken. Which doesn’t explain why I can’t find a parking spot for all the French cars. You see, Karin lives there, in a beautiful apartment (that loses some of its luster when it’s without gas or hot water for winter months. Thanks, you lazy, uncoordinated, strike-happy French bastards. Stick to restaurants.)
I didn’t think I could get perfect beef outside of Europe, but somehow it happened. It was brilliant. One of my lessons learned when ordering meat is to always order it alive (assuming you prefer your cows ending up on your plate nearly mooing.) The best line I’ve ever read about steak was in the Buenos Aires Time Out — describing how the cow basically arrives at your table with no more than minor interaction with a knife and heat, allowing you to all but reassemble the beast from its component parts. Roland et Louise got this right, although my mom’s duck confit was a bit dry and Karin’s stew, well, I am not big on stew.
The restaurant is tiny and cozy and authentic, with rough-hewn wood tables that are nearly falling apart, packed to the brim. Even the grumpy pastis-swilling owner warmed up after a while. It’s great, two thumbs up.
Robert et Louise
64, Rue Vieille du Temple
75003 Paris, France
+33 1 42 78 55 89
