Cool, we found an Alsatian waiter in France. He’s very fey, and constantly out of champagne, but nonetheless a good guy. In combination with the chef at l’Entétée, well, a good combination, leave it at that — they’d better be, with the addition of an assistant in the kitchen, that’s all they have in terms of staff. The restaurant is tiny, reservations are essential, and completely out of the way (tip for taking a taxi: tell them to go down Ave. du Maine, then follow Rue Daguerre to the left, then drop you off at the corner with Rue Danville. Otherwise they’ll have no clue) but it’s very much worth a trip.
They change parts of their menu every few weeks; so far, we had the tarte tatin au brie & endives (ugh, leeks, although I know that, objectively speaking, it was probably delicious, at least Karin said so), terrine de foie de volailes (very rough texture but complex flavors) and some other stuff that’s no longer on the menu (the chef seems to love balsamico reductions. Whee.) The last time there, I had a parmentier with blood sausage that was absolutely magnificent; in fact, all the dishes we tried had really beautiful and subtle mixes of flavors.
I think it was cute how insecure the chef was about whether we’d liked it or not when I told her how awesome the parmentier was. Turns out that a lot of people send things back because it’s _too_ interesting for them. Bah. Their loss, more for us. For dessert, try the tarte aux pommes with salted caramel mousse — same deal. I just wish they weren’t always out of champagne, although the Chinon we had with dinner was pretty tasty.
Overall, L’Entétée is one of the more adventurous and delicious places we’ve found in Paris, and very reasonably priced at that (~105 euros for two people, 3 courses each, including wine.) Check it out.
L’Entétée
4, rue Danville
F-75014 Paris
+33 (0) 1 40 47 56 81
http://www.myspace.com/entetee
